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Real lighting (none of that fake CG nonsense)
show user profile  9krausec
What tube bulb (florescent light) would be best to purchase to see "true color" of an object? I have access to whatever reference I need, but at work the lighting in the building sucks so it's hard to figure out what color I'm actually seeing.

Sorry if this is a silly question. I figure get something that is closest to sunlight? Makes sense to me, just figured I'd ask.


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read 591 times
10/7/2014 8:26:46 PM (last edit: 10/7/2014 8:26:46 PM)
show user profile  BishBashRoss
You might consider something like this maybe.

read 580 times
10/7/2014 8:31:45 PM (last edit: 10/7/2014 8:31:45 PM)
show user profile  9krausec
ooo. Very cool! Affordable as well.

I'm glad I asked. Thanks BishBash.

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read 578 times
10/7/2014 8:34:33 PM (last edit: 10/7/2014 8:34:33 PM)
show user profile  frostiebox
Maybe this link can help you.....

read 570 times
10/7/2014 8:38:02 PM (last edit: 10/7/2014 8:38:02 PM)
show user profile  Mr_Stabby

read 552 times
10/8/2014 5:54:10 AM (last edit: 10/8/2014 5:54:10 AM)
show user profile  9krausec
Frostie- Didn't understand swop at all. Looking for a simple solution.

Stabberino- Thanks for the input. Might be something I'll consider to integrate into future workflow.

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read 531 times
10/8/2014 3:57:39 PM (last edit: 10/8/2014 3:57:39 PM)
show user profile  frostiebox
oh well. I tried.

Good Luck!
read 520 times
10/8/2014 5:26:43 PM (last edit: 10/8/2014 5:26:43 PM)
show user profile  9krausec
^Yes! Thank you for the information though! It is appreciated.

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read 518 times
10/8/2014 5:34:47 PM (last edit: 10/8/2014 5:34:47 PM)
show user profile  Error404
Why not just use a Macbeth color chart?

Take a photo of the color chart, then take a photo of your reference, then color balance the photos, and you have 'calibrated' reference images now that you can sample colors from.

If you just want simple white balance, you can do that in photoshop, and apply that color correction to all of your images. If you use something like HDRshop, it will give you values that you can plug into a color matrix which you can use in Nuke, or other programs. -

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10/8/2014 5:47:55 PM (last edit: 10/8/2014 5:53:09 PM)
show user profile  9krausec
Good advice. That makes more sense. Just figured if I could just get the part for reference in my hand, under correct light I would be able to reference off the actual object instead of a photo.

I think the color chart would probably be the best. We have a T2i at work here with a 50mm fixed so it'd work.


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read 503 times
10/8/2014 6:04:58 PM (last edit: 10/8/2014 6:04:58 PM)
show user profile  Error404
having the object there is nice for modeling, but for matching colors and such it really is easier to have good photographs of it that you can overlay your CG render on top of, or next to. alot easier to get colors that way. You can look at individual color channels that way, to really get the colors dialed in.

Try to recreate the lighting you take your reference photos with, so that your CG renders have similar lighting, that will help get the textures and shaders dialed in. If you're able to take a spherical HDR of your lighting setup, that would be nice, so that you can use that for your CG renders do dial in your shaders and textures. The more you can get your CG environment closer to the real environment that you took the photos in, the easier it will be to get the shaders and colors accurate.

There is always going to be guess work and eyeballing involved, but giving yourself a bit of an upper hand never hurts :)

If you're going to be re-creating several objects, what I would do is create an enclosed "studio" out of an appropriately sized box, that way you can be sure that all of the objects have the same lighting. There's plenty of websites that detail very inexpensive ways of making small photo studios using cardboard and paper. -

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10/8/2014 6:15:19 PM (last edit: 10/8/2014 6:24:59 PM)
show user profile  9krausec
Dude. I love cardboard and paper!

But seriously, thanks for the input!

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read 495 times
10/8/2014 8:10:45 PM (last edit: 10/8/2014 8:10:45 PM)
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