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Maxunderground news unavailable

Quadro 4000 VS GTX 590... ?!??!
show user profile  digital3ds
So I'm ready to buy, and I'm conflicted.

A friend works for the Air Force, specializing in computers, recommends I build a X79 workstation with a Quadro 4000. I've been trying to read up as much as I can about the two, but am still at a cross-road.

I need this thing to be able to handle complicated scenes in the viewport as well as rendering. I'm going with 32gb or ram to start with the p9x79 deluxe. (and i7 3930k)

If I liquid cooled a GTX 590 (3gb), would that preform better than the Quadro 4000? Very confused...


- Mike Sawicki




read 1675 times
1/31/2012 9:55:30 PM (last edit: 1/31/2012 9:55:30 PM)
show user profile  Mr_Stabby
the gtx590 is roughly 2 times faster, no contest

read 1666 times
1/31/2012 10:19:14 PM (last edit: 1/31/2012 10:19:14 PM)
show user profile  advance-software
AMD GPUs have the highest performance at the moment if you're going hardcore.

http://www.amd.com/us/products/desktop/graphics/7000/7970/Pages/radeon-7970.aspx

read 1658 times
1/31/2012 10:39:19 PM (last edit: 1/31/2012 10:39:49 PM)
show user profile  digital3ds
Awesome, thanks for the input.. Yeah i was looking at some of the firePro cards, and they seemed crazy, but with 3ds max, mudbox and a few other programs they really bogged down. I guess they have graphic accelerators for things like Maya.

I went with the 590, I just hope it doesn't catch fire during long renders :/

- Mike Sawicki




read 1649 times
1/31/2012 10:57:26 PM (last edit: 1/31/2012 10:57:26 PM)
show user profile  Bolteon
*shakes head at thread*

-Marko Mandaric



read 1642 times
1/31/2012 11:49:31 PM (last edit: 1/31/2012 11:49:31 PM)
show user profile  Mr_Stabby
it wont catch fire, if you really want to make sure though you can always downclock + undervolt it and still have better performance @ cooler temperatures than a quadro 4000. that is assuming you use the stock cooler, if you watercool it you can overclock it and run it cooler then the quadro

read 1637 times
2/1/2012 12:02:30 AM (last edit: 2/1/2012 12:04:19 AM)
show user profile  digital3ds
Erebus sells a liquid cooled 590 on top of their coolant system, but I went with a standard gtx590 and asetek 550 lc... not sure if that will cool the gpu as well as - or just the proccessor

-edit- The reason I was conflicted about the 4000 is a lot of people seem to say it's far more stable for programs like max because it designed for professional level graphics rendering whereas the gtx 590 was developed for gaming. When I looked at the stats though the gtx was way more powerful, so it was unclear as to why you would go with a 4000.

I feel a lot better getting opinions from you guys, who know a hell of a lot more about computers than I do, Thanks again
- Mike Sawicki




read 1636 times
2/1/2012 12:10:23 AM (last edit: 2/1/2012 12:18:29 AM)
show user profile  Mr_Stabby
the asetek 550 is a cpu loop only and not a particularly good one. what are you trying to cool with it?

read 1620 times
2/1/2012 1:24:00 AM (last edit: 2/1/2012 1:24:00 AM)
show user profile  ScotlandDave
You won`t need the 590 tho unless you`re doing realtime gpu rendering.. To me it`s a bit overkill price/performance..


Website | Blog | Contact | Vimeo

read 1613 times
2/1/2012 1:42:37 AM (last edit: 2/1/2012 1:42:37 AM)
show user profile  digital3ds
cooling the cpu, not sure how to cool the gpu without buying a specific liquid cooled gpu
- Mike Sawicki




read 1608 times
2/1/2012 1:52:03 AM (last edit: 2/1/2012 1:52:03 AM)
show user profile  Mr_Stabby
http://www.aquatuning.us/

crash course:
get a pump - anything 500l/h+ will do, whats more important is head pressure, aim for 2m+ for single waterblock loop or 4m+ for multiple components

get a radiator - 240mm rad will adequately cool any single cpu/gpu, 360mm rads though arent much more expensive (sometimes even cheaper) and cool even better. If you got multiple waterblocks in the loop it is recommended that you run the loop through at least a 120mm rad between each block or run multiple loops in parallel.

get waterblocks - match the socket and your wallet size, the difference between a $20 and a $150 block is under 4C. In gpu block department you pretty much have to take what you can get since there isnt all that much variety available there.

get tubing - temperature wise there is below 1% difference between a 8mm and a 13mm tube, whats more important here is that wider tubing usually has thicker walls and is more resistant to kinking, on the other hand its usually more expensive and is a bigger drag on case airflow

get a reservuar or a T-line (or sometimes they sell pumps submerged in reservuars) - generally the t-line being basically a valve into your loop is least expensive with res+pump combos are the most expensive. Has no meaningful effect on the performance either way so whatever you fancy.

get fittings - all commercial wc components come with either 1/8, 1/2 or most commonly 1/4 inch socket where you stick your fitting in (which one it is is usually written in technical specs of the component) so if you have for example 10mm inner diameter tubing and a 1/4inch socket on your pump you get a 1/4" to 10mm fitting. There is also the choice of barbs+clamps vs compression fittings, compression are bit more expensive but easyer to install and you can reuse them (usually once you take a clamp off its done for). Also make sure the material is either some kind of non conductive coating or brass, do not get the cheap steel or nickel ones, more of this later. Some folk feel a bit squeamish about watercooling due to fear of leaks - this is the part where you get over it, you just have to try this yourself, after you put a compression fitting on a tube you can get a buddy to hold to the fitting while you pull the tube with all your strength and unless you're like really ripped it wont come off and it wont break :p they are pretty tough.

get distilled water - since copper is a biocide, unless the components got contaminated with real nasty bugs on the way to you, there is a high chance you will be fine running just pure distilled water through your loop without it ever getting infested by algae. If you want to make sure though there are silver kill coils that you temporarily add to your loop for the first week or so, alternatively there are biocide liquids that also contain silver.. either way if you do this you're also going to have to add some anti corrosion liquids to your soup.

dont get galvanic corrosion - its a reaction between noble and not so noble metals, when connected by a conductive substance they produce tiny amounts of electricity and roast the surface of the metal, not cool. mixing copper, brass and bronze is fine, generally if a commercial wc component contains metals exposed to the water like radiators or waterblocks they are all made of copper. Mixing copper with steel, aluminum or silver is not fine, it would develop a slight layer of corrosion(which might eventually produce leaks but is definitely hampering the cooling efficiency) over your components in around a year or so depending on the amount of current generated, using anti corrosion agents will slow this down considerably to 10+ years. Alternatively you can measure the current generated and apply the exact opposite current in the opposite polarity which would eliminate the corrosion completely, might be tricky though since it will likely shift around over time.

Oh and dont use water dyes, they will clog up your blocks and suck in general.

read 1596 times
2/1/2012 4:15:14 AM (last edit: 2/1/2012 4:15:14 AM)
show user profile  digital3ds
I am not really ripped... lmao, you are a god among men sir. Thanks for the web site too, I'm deff gonna need some help on this, but it seems like the best way to go

- Mike Sawicki




read 1594 times
2/1/2012 4:31:44 AM (last edit: 2/1/2012 4:31:44 AM)
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