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Are laptop screen connectors compatible? Are there types?
show user profile  horizon
I have a Lenovo ThinkPad SL500 laptop with a faulty background light (LCD matrix seems to be fine).

Before I order a screen or take it to a shop, I need to find out if the problems is in the lamp, cables, connector...
Can't find anyone with an identical laptop to try, so I'm wondering if these connectors are universal like sata is for disk drives and such.

This is the video of the simple procedure to switch the screens for a similar laptop (SL510)

Will Lenovo B560 laptop screen be compatible? Will any other laptop screen be compatible?
(PS. I don't mean the size or will it fit in, just the connector part so it works properly)

I found out there can be a problem with the inverter as well as other things I mentioned.
And there is a "Data cable" that mostly has 40 pins but can also have 30.
And there is a difference between LED and CFL backlight (which I knew but didn't think the same laptop can come with either)

I'm piecing together separate pieces of information here, any help would be greatly appreciated

read 517 times
12/28/2013 7:46:36 PM (last edit: 12/28/2013 8:07:49 PM)
show user profile  Dmaxer
test the cables , make sure the laptop is all powered down and uplug the CFL from the invertor pcb , use a muti meter to test the cables for an open circuit fault from one end to the other if they are ok then it maybe the tube , CFL tubes dont cost very much now days, most of the time its those that go first , next inline is the invertor and 9 time out of 10 its the coil that goes or the Fet , just replace the whole board should not cost more than £20 - 30 and its a simple job most of the time :) you can also get cold cathode lights for back lights too so make sure your getting the right bulb if you need to order a new one.

read 499 times
12/28/2013 8:43:50 PM (last edit: 12/28/2013 8:43:50 PM)
show user profile  horizon
I have a digital multimeter but with my skill the probes would be better used to eat sushi.
Could you guide me through it? What setting to use and which parts of the cables to touch with which probe (red & black thingies, whatever they're called :D

read 473 times
12/30/2013 10:05:22 PM (last edit: 12/30/2013 10:05:22 PM)
show user profile  Mr_Stabby
the data cable is some type of LVDS cable, they do have some universal types (afaik 22, 32 and 64 pins) but i think yours is a proprietary version.
To find out whether or not the screens are compatible you can google for service manuals of both, they usually have good detail on all the connectors down to what signal is in which wire.
Backlight differences - usually the backlight and the lcd panel are directly connected but separatable modules, if thats the case they are most likely interchangeable but without consulting the service manual there is no way of knowing really.

As for finding where the problem is,
the cabling is most likely fine, for one they are built very durable and the panel wouldn't work even if its a tiny bit off on anything (nature of lvds)
to find out whether its the lamp or the backlight circuitry you'll have to pop it open though and take a voltage probe to the backlight circuit (they usually have probing spots indicated in service manual)
In any case the easiest solution would probably be just to order a new backlight module(you can get the model from either the manual or written on the thing and order from ebay, usually around 50 bucks for the low end variety) and replace the whole thing, in some cases its cheaper to replace the lamps alone (if its a CFL) but nowdays they are pretty hard to reach so not really worth the effort and risk to the rest of the module.

read 457 times
12/31/2013 2:55:34 AM (last edit: 12/31/2013 2:58:30 AM)
show user profile  Dmaxer
sorry to sound rude horizon but if you have to ask what setting to use on a multimeter then your better off paying some else to look at it for you and I would not advice you go poking around the backlight circuit as you are more than likely to do more damage then anything else , forget the service manual because I don't think you would understand it even if you could get hold of it.
save your self the trouble and take it to some one that knows what they are doing. again I don't want to rude rude but if you don't know the basics and its clear to me that you don't then don't mess with it.

oh and just for the record Stabby I've had to fix quite a few HV cables on Laptops in the past so I can say for a fact they not always that durable :(

read 451 times
12/31/2013 3:58:31 AM (last edit: 12/31/2013 3:58:31 AM)
show user profile  Mr_Stabby
i have seen my share of ripped FFC's in laptops but never the lvds one, in fact the last one i saw was sleeved in kevlar which is why im so impressed

read 449 times
12/31/2013 4:25:04 AM (last edit: 12/31/2013 4:25:04 AM)
show user profile  horizon
Well I didn't know how to crimp network cabels or apply a thermal paste before I tried it for the first time.

I know the multimeter should create a low current and listen for it on the other side, but have no idea which setting would do that, which power would not burn it and which pins are interconnected. Does not seem so hard to do with simple instructions though.

still haven't managed to get my hands on it, as soon as I do I'll open it up and check the number of cable pins, and try to google what I can find with the part number.
If the cable is not likely to be the problem and the lamp is hard to replace on it own, it's not much chance I'll get anything out of it other than to order a new one

Thanks guys

read 434 times
1/3/2014 12:18:01 AM (last edit: 1/3/2014 12:18:01 AM)
show user profile  Mr_Stabby
cheapo multimeters generally have 4 modes with various numbers attached to them, the number determines the magnitude of the read and the closer the number is to what you're looking for the more accurate read you'll get (for instance if you set it on 200k ohms and the display says 131 then it means 131k ohms).
the modes themselves are dc voltage, ac voltage, dc current and resistance
only in the resistance mode a current is sent out, in other cases it reads whats already there
usually they have several probe ports too, one for the negative lead and 2 for positive leads either high or low current (the high current one is used for current mode because the other modes use very little current), the ports should be marked as to what they are capable of and what kind of modes they should be used with

thats the description of a $10 multimeter, as they get more expensive and fancier they just have less ports, less mode settings (those get automated) and maybe some extra features from the oscilloscope side of things

read 426 times
1/3/2014 1:34:05 AM (last edit: 1/3/2014 1:34:05 AM)
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