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Maxunderground news unavailable

Finall I got a camera :)
show user profile  inxa
Hello Everyone,

Finally I have made a decision and bought a Camera.
I had in mind to buy a real good one. But then I thought I don't need a very high grade slr right now.

I got a budget put up.

And this is what I got - Canon 590IS.

In India, I got a rechargeable battery set, a charger, a 2gb card + 32 mb built in card. and a case.

Just saw a website called pixmania, it shows the cost as 117 GBP.

I am clicking a lot now. Once I have some good shots I will show them across.

I want some real help regarding questions like,
(some are lame)

do we use the various modes given.
do we do it all manually adjusting every aspect from film speed to shutter speed.
All valuable suggestions welcome.
what would be the best iso for kids and moving pictures.
For portaits do we use the mode given or manually.

But I am really happy with the camera.

What do you all think.

3D ArchVis
Photography blog
Facebook Photography page

read 724 times
4/30/2008 12:01:06 PM (last edit: 4/30/2008 12:02:59 PM)
show user profile  3Ddeath
Canon is always a good choice, I got a 630 but without image stabalization :(. but Super nice photos, awesome camera :)

At first I felt guilty in using the auto setting too much, felt like it was too easy and it should be harder.

Over time i've found that most good photos arn't nessessarly created by a good manual setting on the camera but they are created by the content and your eyes ablity to see how that content can be captured.

As far as ISO goes, the lowest you can get away the better, its a trade of between blury and noisy pictures, if its too low you will get blur, if its too high you will get noise. The brighter it is outside the less ISO you need and probbly don't need to worry about blur or noise, the darker it is you may need more ISO if you don't use flash, but then you get noise.

You have a compact camera, which means a small lens and a small sensor, like mine its going to suck for dark indoor images without flash.

Portfolio Site
read 702 times
4/30/2008 12:34:23 PM (last edit: 4/30/2008 12:35:55 PM)
show user profile  inxa
I get your point. I have to know the iso thing correct though if am doing manual. I need to learn getting a good pic with adjusting the 3 parameters. I am sure it will help me with 3D also.

Well..none of the master of photography to reply. Where are you guys.

3D ArchVis
Photography blog
Facebook Photography page

read 651 times
4/30/2008 8:55:38 PM (last edit: 4/30/2008 8:55:38 PM)
show user profile  Error404
The various modes might be helpful, I would try out different modes on the same scene, and see what the results are. Most likely, I think you'll find that the results are often quite similar for average scenes.

As far as manually adjusting things, over time I have formed the opinion (an opinion both shared, and opposed by many professionals) that making things more complicated than need be, doesn't necessarily make for a better image. It may make you feel better about the capture, but it won't do anything different for someone else who sees it :-) Especially since with a digital camera, you can look at your exposure after you take it. If it's to dark, you can adjust the exposure compensation and make the exposure brighter, or let the camera meter on a darker area of the scene and then re-compose and shoot.

The challenge of setting shutter speed and aperture can be a fun challenge though (which is partly why I like shooting with older design cameras), and to me photography is about fun and great images. Manual exposure (to me) is more useful when you know you want a series of shots to have the same exposure, if the light isn't changing. Or obviously, on a camera that doesn't have any metering capabilities. If I'm using a camera that has metering capabilities, I usually leave it in "aperture mode", I tell it what aperture I want, and it figures out what shutter speed is needed to get the 'correct' exposure (in most cameras, this 'correct' can be altered with exposure compensation, so you essentially DO have control similar to manual) Since with my cameras I am usually more concerned with what aperture I'm using (depth of field) than what shutter speed I'm using. If I notice my shutter speeds start to get to slow, I'll open up the aperture a bit, or bump the ISO up a bit.

Kids and moving pictures? Well, a flash will stop movement, but sometimes (alot of times?) a flash can look a bit harsh, depending on how dark everything else is.

All the 'modes' really do (portrait mode, party mode, museum mode, and so on) is tell the camera weather to keep a fast shutter speed, slow shutter speed, flash or no flash. And the same for aperture. But honestly, most smaller cameras have a small chip, so aperture has little noticeable effect on the DOF, so you are mostly concerned with shutter speed and flash.

For a portrait, try the different modes, I think most likely you'll find that most of the modes give you about the same exposure (unless one mode turns on the flash). In theory, the 'portrait' mode probably tries to open up the aperture as much as possible, so that the background can be blurred out a little bit. But it may also (in newer cameras) try to find the eyes and focus on the eyes. The modes are handy for when you (or rather, someone who isn't familiar with photography) doesn't know if a fast or slow shutter speed is best, or if a flash is needed (or wanted), so by choosing those modes, the camera gets some idea of what it's looking at. It most likely won't make any difference on the actual exposure brightness of the image (accept for when flash is or isn't used), but rather the combination of aperture and shutter speed (and/or flash) that it uses to get to that same exposure level.

Good luck with it! -

read 638 times
4/30/2008 11:10:23 PM (last edit: 4/30/2008 11:22:26 PM)
show user profile  inxa
Thanks a lot Error.

(I removed those lines :S)

I want good pictures, ofcourse :)

But more than that, this will give me a way good time to learn the relation between those crazy parameters, chaos puts 10 - 12 pages explaining. I feel that's the best way to understand a relation between phy cameras and sun and sky.

I have read some pdfs and tried clicking, where I think, ISO high is used for night / low light situations. But it does give noise. Less ISO 100 / 200 is used for bright daylight. But then one has to be careful of the blur that can cause. So tripod or it's substitutes are very helpful.

Recently downloaded some pdf's.

I feel to learn the not-so-automatic way is a lot of more fun, now that you don't have to waste your film with digital cameras. It gives you a lot of open view of trying more options, manually. Click click. See your image, understand the settings. I am sure one day, a person can finally analyze good settings. Though it's not sure even if you are a pro, every image you get is excellent. Isn't it.

I am moving out of town this weekend to a near-by hill station called Mahabaleshwar. I am keen to click a lot of pictures if we venture out in the open. This is mainly a weekend getaway for us from daily life.

Thanks everyone from MF who have taken my repetitive posts for cameras and replied me with the best and helpful answers.

Any more feeds.

3D ArchVis
Photography blog
Facebook Photography page

read 628 times
4/30/2008 11:22:23 PM (last edit: 5/1/2008 5:24:15 AM)
show user profile  3Ddeath
So, where are these pics?

Portfolio Site
read 600 times
5/1/2008 11:24:53 AM (last edit: 5/1/2008 11:24:53 AM)
show user profile  inxa
Posted some photos on the photography section. Follow the link,

3D ArchVis
Photography blog
Facebook Photography page

read 544 times
5/5/2008 11:32:13 AM (last edit: 5/5/2008 11:32:13 AM)
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